We have all seen spot UV varnish right? It’s been well done and dusted indeed – still classically nice if used well but what of HIGH BUILD UV VARNISH?
“What’s that?” I hear you ask . . .
Well, it is extremely similar to conventional Screen printed spot UV (there are other methods but screen printed UV, in my experience gives the best results) but the screens that are used are made much much coarser so therefore more varnish is squeezed through.
This then makes the UV coating about twice the density/thickness than normal.
This gives a nice tactile result and also really increases the contrast, especially if used like this example. (Design – Bond and Coyne) A nice rich black background (good use of the LBB of course!) with complimentary PMS limey green. Matt laminated, then high spot UV to the rest of the text.
Imagine using this on images of water droplets or bubbles maybe. It would really bring them to life . . . but hey, I’m not a designer so I am sure you creative people would make much better use of it.
As with normal Spot UV, there are limitations . . . avoid fine detail and be aware of possible ‘movement’ with tight register work.
If you have any questions or would like to see a sample of High Build Spot UV, then as usual, please get in touch and I’d be happy to help.
ttfn . . .
Dayfold's Blog 
I have to agree that this work showcases the power of print-it is both stunning to look at and at the same time, gives us that all important FEEL. Its amazing the positve vibes you get from a good feel. Enough said.
I was thinking how important the role of the laminate was in this designs success. Everyone knows we love Black solids but without the laminate the UV process would have made the surface brittle and without doubt, the very likely cracking on the spine and the chipping on the edges would have ruined the effect. So we love the contrasting sensations that matt lam and gloss uv (of any kind) add to the effect but should warn against using UV without considering its drawbacks.
Is “High Build Spot UV Varnish” a silk-screen process only or can it be done on offset presses?
Hi Steve,
High Build UV is, as far as I know, only a screen printed process.
Conventional offset presses that have ‘inline’ UV drying units can apply Spot UV pretty effectively but I am sure that you wouldnt have as much control over the amount of varnish you put down/print in comparison to the screen printed method.
Thanks for your query Steve, good to hear from you. Hope all is good in Fort Wayne.
ChrisP
PS – if anyone knows different to this then please do let us know . . .
I love this finish, absolutely beautiful. I’ve been struggling with a project which calls for the gloss for highlight a particular area. I’ve been screenprinting with a 80T screen on matt stock but I’ve learned that the stock just absorbs the gloss. Do I need to LAMINATE then apply the gloss? – is this do-able at home? I’m a graphic design student and on a budget!
thanks
Hi Philip, yes it is a nice effect. Sounds to me like you are trying to UV on an UNCOATED stock?? If so then yes, this will give you a problem. You CAN UV onto uncoated materials but you will need to apply the UV twice, sometimes 3 times for it to have the desired effect. Does that make sense? As you mentioned, you can laminate the sheet and then UV (like on our blog sample) but if you are using uncoated material, this will obviously change the look and certainly the feel of the stock. Laminating at home – it’s possible if you have the right equipment but if you have access to screen print kit then, as mentioned above, try double hitting (or triple hitting) the UV. Effectively, the 1st layer of UV ‘seals’ the area so the next layer will hopefully be ‘accepted’ and give the desired effect. Hope this helps – let me know how you get on . . . cheers. ChrisP
Hi all
we’ve printed 4 colour covers with a matt laminated and spot gloss uv varnish finish. The varnish seems to flake. We use environmental friendly inks.
I need your expert advise to prevent this in future.
The material used was a 280gm Incada one side coated board.
thanks.
Hello Lisinda
Big apologies for the delay in reply!
Thanks for getting in touch . . . sounds to me like the UV hasn’t cured for long enough.
There are a few things that can make UV crack – it also depends on the type of UV application – was it a litho, flexo or Screen printed UV?
Did the UV go across the crease? That can often cause cracking, although generally the lamination will stop this. Was the job definitely laminated? Daft question maybe but you can sometimes get cracking on non laminated surfaces.
It would be good to see a copy then I could advise more accurately . . . please do feel free to mail me a copy and I would be happy to!
Thanks Lisinda
Best
Chris
Hello, Was wondering do you mix the high spot uv varnish with binder? Alongside this how course does the screen have to be?
Daisy
Hi Daisy, the high build UV is applied to the fianl job, after print and before binding. If you wqould like more information call me on 01202 812212 or e-mail me at the office on alan@dayfold.com
P.s. Is this a good product to use
http://theartistsstore.com/shopping/pgm-more_information.php?id=306